Category Archives: Cultivation

Germinating Cannabis Seeds

There are a number of tried & tested ways to germinate Marijuana seeds one of the best and most reliable methods is the paper towel method.

Simply get a few sheets of kitchen towel, and place the seeds in between the paper on a plate, then wet the paper towel so it is moist but not soggy. You don’t want the seeds sitting in standing water. The best way to do this is spray the towels with a water mister so they are damp but not soaking wet. Tip off any excess water that is left on the plate. Then you need to place them in a dark, warm place. The most common place is in an airing cupboard or any cupboard that is dark & fairly warm (18-25 degrees Celsius is best) That works out at 66-80 Fahrenheit.

Some people place the seeds on top of their cable/satellite box or on top of their PC (anywhere that gives of a small amount of heat is ideal)

It is important to check the seeds at least twice a day so that the paper has not dried out, if it is starting to dry out just spray with some a little more water. Repeat this process if necessary.

In about 24-48 hours (sometimes longer) the seeds should have ‘split’ and you will see a ‘tap-root’ starting to appear from the seed. It is best to let this tap root get to approx 1cm long before potting into the medium of your choice. If you have germinated successfully you will see your seeds have ‘popped’ like the ones below:

Once the seeds have popped you are ready to plant into the medium of your choice.

Another method is just to simply get a cup of water (regular tap water is fine) some use distilled or mineral water but water from your kitchen tap is perfectly okay. Now drop the seeds(s) into the water, cover with some clingfilm to stop evaporation & put the seed in somewhere dark and warm. The seed will probably float don’t worry about this it is normal, after appoximately 24-36 hours the seed should have sunk & split open. Once this has happened you can take the seed out and plant (make sure the tap root is facing downwards into your growing medium when planting)…

Germination and growing mediums

So I want to start out by one of the best ways to germinate seeds. There are several different methods to germinate seeds. The most common you will see is taking a cloth and a bowl of water.. and a heating pad and putting your seeds onto the cloth… Before getting water its best to test the PH of your water, because to high or to low will make your seeds not germinate properly when they pop open. If you are going to be growing hydroponicly you want a pH of 5.0-5.5 for soil grow you want a pH of 6.0-7.0. Some people will argue that 7 is to high… its neutral.. I grow and use 7.0. The best way to test your pH is to get a pH meter. You can get them at a local Hardware store or garden place. Wal-Mart also sells them for about $11. Now make sure the cloth is saturated but not submerged in water, then place your seeds onto the cloth in your bowl. Now take a heating pad and place it underneath your bowl and put your seeds into a dark plac. Turn your heating pad on the lowest setting and let it set for 15 or 24 hours…. Make sure you check in on your seeds to make sure the water is not evaporating. When your seeds do germinate use tweezers to pick up your seedlings and then place them in whatever medium you are going to use. Example: Rockwool, pot, peat pellet or other hydro growing mediums.

1) A side note that I have noticed also, is that people like to or tend to use paper towels…. I have noticed a lot people have had problems with using paper towels… why? Because paper towels have a lot of dye and other chemicals in them that can be harmful to seedlings… so it’s best to stay away from using paper towels.
A clean cloth or hand rag that hasn’t been used in fabric softener is good enough.

Another way people use to germinate seeds is by using peat pellets.
Peat pellets tend to have a pH of 6.5 which is just right where you want it. Taking your peat pellet and your water place the pellet into the bowl of water and wait for it to absorb. A lot of people will add one drop of superthrive to help boost seed germination rate! That will work and I recommend it if you are having problems with seeds germinating, However using to much will cause the seedling not to grow so use with caution its very strong stuff. You can buy superthrive at Wal-mart or your local Hydro shop. Now you have your peat pellet all absorbed making sure your hands are clean before picking up your peat pellet… you want to squeeze out the excess water carefully, NOT too much you still want it to me very moist. Now take 2 toothpicks and make a hole about 2 cm deep and then take your seed and place it in the hole and cover a small bit of the dirt over it .

Also if you are going to grow hydroponicly and use Rockwool you want to make sure you soak your Rockwool cubes in water for 24 hours to adjust the pH of the cubes! Then taking a nail or pencil & making a hole in the middle is good enough take your plant and seedling and place it in the Rockwool!…

Flowering, transplanting your crop and Harvesting

Well now we are just about done! WE have put our plant(s) into flowering now which means the lighting should be changed from whatever you had in veg to 12/12. Its very important that you all realize how important this lighting schedule is…. While the first few weeks of flowering is very important in keeping your plant as stress free as possible… Meaning NO LIGHT LEAKS… any light leaks will cause the plant to either stretch more, slow flowering stage down, can almost revert back to veg state, and cause hermies. So, its very important that your flowering room is COMPLETELY light leak free. So now after the first few days of flowering you will want to switch over to bloom Nutrients … stuff that has high in P and K…. more P then K though. Now during the first 3 weeks the plant will double or triple in size.. so make sure you have enough grow space to flower them or put some screws on your pot and get some string and tie the plants down a bit. Doing this will maximize yield and keep your plants a lower profile, therefore saving room in your grow space. Also going into flowering or 1 week after flowering it is wise to make sure your plant will have a big enough pot to grow in through the whole process of flowering. A general rule is 12 in of plant to 1 gallon size pot.

I use 5 gallon size pots for flowering. It is NOT wise to transplant in the middle or late flowering UNLESS you know your plant will not finish. I just had one of those myself.I had a sativa grow indoors in a 5 gallon pot. If I did not transplant her into a 10 gallon pot she would of just stayed at the same stage she was in. Rootbound during flowering can cause a huge problem. Decreased yield, small bud size, and a complete halt in the plants growing. And the plant can not take in its nutrients properly and can lead to many deficients. So its best to plan now before you have to do what I had to. Transplanting in late flower can stress it if your not carefull. My advice for transplanting is get ahold of some superthrive, thrive alive, or a b11 vitamin supplement… it helps ease transplant shock and helps promote a nice healthy root system!!
Now we have passed the first few weeks and your plant has started to bud out nicely… now is the time you want to keep an eye out for your plant becoming a hermie…

Any stress in form of overwatering, to much nutrients or nute burn can be added to cause the plant to hermie. It can be very hard to spot the ball sack with the bud so you will have to look very hard and carefull. Sometimes the whole plant doesn’t hermie, just a few branches or maybe just one. So if that is the case than you can just cut the branch off or cut all the pollen sacks off. One pollen sack broke open from a hermie plant will ruin your sinsimea crop!! So be very carefull!

SO now we are getting very close to harvesting our crop..
Now is the question. When is the best time to cut her down? The best way to find out when your plant is ready is by the color of the trichomes. The chart in here will tell you what color of trichome head will produce what kind of high. The only real and best way to look at the trich’s is to get a hold of a microscope that has a 30x magnification on it.

You can pick one up at most places that carry electronics or a garden shop. Radio Shack carrys a nice one for 15 bucks! If you get one that has anymore then 30x your really wasting money unless you need one stronger. So now you got your microscope and your chart. The place to look at the trichs is on the leaves around the frosty part of the bud..
Now depending on what kind of high you want you can chop when you have half and half or mostly cloudy and some amber, it all depends on how you like it.

Sometimes the upper plant will be more potent then the lower half, so some people only harvest half of it and then let the bottom half become like the top. Most times the lower half will have different color trichs so its best to check the upper,middle and lower plant depending on the size of it.
So now we are ready to chop her! Manicuring while after cutting in my opinion is bad because while the plant is dying it still has sugars and starches still coming from its leaves which can contribute to a much taster buds. So its just best to cut the plant hang it and manicure it after it is ready. You can tell when your plant is ready to be manicured and stored away to cure by taking a branch and bending it.

If it still has some bend to it, its just about ready to be manicured and jared! Before you manicure your crop you will notice there are leaves that have more trichomes on them. If you want to save the leaves for making hash,oils or cannabuter from, its best to keep the trim in certin piles. Like the fan leves in one pile, smaller trim in another, and the smaller trim with a lot of trichs in another. The best way to cure your crop is take some jars with some seal tight lids. Pref those jars they store jelly in. Not sure what the name is though lol. Either that or a nice seal tight Tupperware container. The process of curing your bud is kinda long. So therefore by jarring them and opening them up a few times a …

Temps, Humidity, Reflectivity and Watering

Now we have our plants, nutrients lighting and photo period, we now need to choose what is best Temperatures and humidity For Vegging…For Vegging you want to have the temperatures around the 70’s 70-75F works best….You can have it to 80F, but no more , because you are risking heat stress to your plants. Most strains grow best around the 75F mark, where it’s nice and cool… but not too chilly. Always have fans in your grow room for they love the swaying of the wind it produces, it always produces stronger stems from the swaying motions. Having a fan blowing on them is great to but you don’t want it to where its blowing your plants all over the place lol. Keeping a fan in your grow keeps the temperatures down considerably and are one of the most important part of your grow equipment for it keeps fresh air going in your grow.

At night if you like you can keep the temperature in the 60’s but any less will cause stress to the plants. For having this temperature difference, people do this so they can get different colors on there buds and plants. By reducing the temperature at night during flowering when they are in the dark period they tend to change into a purple or bluish tint, then resuming normal temps during the normal light period. IF you wish to do this you need to make sure you can get them temps at night either with the climate you live in or by artificial means such as fans and air conditioning. Always make sure you keep it normal and steady.. Not by keeping the temps at 60F one dark period and then the next dark period go to 75. That will stress out your plants and can cause problems. So make sure if you choose to do this keep it steady temps for dark and lighting… choose one temp for lighting and the other for dark period.

Now for the humidity. Humidity is important for the first 2 weeks and gets a little less important during veg stage.. But still needs to be within range.

The humidity for seedlings- veg ranges from 50%- 40%
I use 55% humidity for seedlings… it seems they sprout faster with a bit over the range… 60% seems to be too high for seedlings. Vegetative growth humidity needs to be around 47 to 50% which works best for most strains. I use 42% humidity for veg growth. Some strains are susceptible to mold so staying with in the 50-40% range will keep you save for veg growth. Your better off having the humidity low then high, for causing the worst problems like bud rot during flowering or sweating out its nutrients or root rot. The best way to monitor your temp and humidity is to get a Hygrometer. The best ones to get are digital, they have a very accurate one from Radio Shack, or search eBay there are plenty under $10 out there. If you’re low on money and need one… there is a neat gadget that highway gas stations sell that is used to tell inside and outside temps and humidity for cars. And gives warning for when it gets to cold or to hot. They sell for about 15 dollars, and worth every cent.

Now this part is a option for your grow room… the best setup is to have flat white walls in your grow, because it reflects most of your light back on your plants, therefore getting the most out of your lighting. Using white walls gives you a lot of advantages for 1 you will not get hot spots like foil use… I don’t recommend using foil, because it will cause more hot spots and doesn’t reflect light as efficiently as Mylar and white walls.

Also flat white walls will absorb radiant heat that mylar will reflect back on to your plants meaning you will have to have a better cooling and ventilation system in your grow. Your plants need the light not the heat! If you are wanting to use Mylar besure to apply it flat without creasing or crumpling it. It comes in many different types and colors. The most popular is aluminized and reflects 94% of the light, and is the best for reflectivity other then white walls, if applied correctly will not cause hot spots. Other colors of Mylar come in white,black, metalized and aluminum. You can choose what best suits your growing needs.

Now for the watering part. My great friend Lucky Leaf has been so kind to let me use his thread that he made with reguards to watering practice and when and when not to water your plants! I couldn’t of made a thread as good as his as its very detailed with most questions already answered.…