Well now we are just about done! WE have put our plant(s) into flowering now which means the lighting should be changed from whatever you had in veg to 12/12. Its very important that you all realize how important this lighting schedule is…. While the first few weeks of flowering is very important in keeping your plant as stress free as possible… Meaning NO LIGHT LEAKS… any light leaks will cause the plant to either stretch more, slow flowering stage down, can almost revert back to veg state, and cause hermies. So, its very important that your flowering room is COMPLETELY light leak free. So now after the first few days of flowering you will want to switch over to bloom Nutrients … stuff that has high in P and K…. more P then K though. Now during the first 3 weeks the plant will double or triple in size.. so make sure you have enough grow space to flower them or put some screws on your pot and get some string and tie the plants down a bit. Doing this will maximize yield and keep your plants a lower profile, therefore saving room in your grow space. Also going into flowering or 1 week after flowering it is wise to make sure your plant will have a big enough pot to grow in through the whole process of flowering. A general rule is 12 in of plant to 1 gallon size pot.
I use 5 gallon size pots for flowering. It is NOT wise to transplant in the middle or late flowering UNLESS you know your plant will not finish. I just had one of those myself.I had a sativa grow indoors in a 5 gallon pot. If I did not transplant her into a 10 gallon pot she would of just stayed at the same stage she was in. Rootbound during flowering can cause a huge problem. Decreased yield, small bud size, and a complete halt in the plants growing. And the plant can not take in its nutrients properly and can lead to many deficients. So its best to plan now before you have to do what I had to. Transplanting in late flower can stress it if your not carefull. My advice for transplanting is get ahold of some superthrive, thrive alive, or a b11 vitamin supplement… it helps ease transplant shock and helps promote a nice healthy root system!!
Now we have passed the first few weeks and your plant has started to bud out nicely… now is the time you want to keep an eye out for your plant becoming a hermie…
Any stress in form of overwatering, to much nutrients or nute burn can be added to cause the plant to hermie. It can be very hard to spot the ball sack with the bud so you will have to look very hard and carefull. Sometimes the whole plant doesn’t hermie, just a few branches or maybe just one. So if that is the case than you can just cut the branch off or cut all the pollen sacks off. One pollen sack broke open from a hermie plant will ruin your sinsimea crop!! So be very carefull!
SO now we are getting very close to harvesting our crop..
Now is the question. When is the best time to cut her down? The best way to find out when your plant is ready is by the color of the trichomes. The chart in here will tell you what color of trichome head will produce what kind of high. The only real and best way to look at the trich’s is to get a hold of a microscope that has a 30x magnification on it.
You can pick one up at most places that carry electronics or a garden shop. Radio Shack carrys a nice one for 15 bucks! If you get one that has anymore then 30x your really wasting money unless you need one stronger. So now you got your microscope and your chart. The place to look at the trichs is on the leaves around the frosty part of the bud..
Now depending on what kind of high you want you can chop when you have half and half or mostly cloudy and some amber, it all depends on how you like it.
Sometimes the upper plant will be more potent then the lower half, so some people only harvest half of it and then let the bottom half become like the top. Most times the lower half will have different color trichs so its best to check the upper,middle and lower plant depending on the size of it.
So now we are ready to chop her! Manicuring while after cutting in my opinion is bad because while the plant is dying it still has sugars and starches still coming from its leaves which can contribute to a much taster buds. So its just best to cut the plant hang it and manicure it after it is ready. You can tell when your plant is ready to be manicured and stored away to cure by taking a branch and bending it.
If it still has some bend to it, its just about ready to be manicured and jared! Before you manicure your crop you will notice there are leaves that have more trichomes on them. If you want to save the leaves for making hash,oils or cannabuter from, its best to keep the trim in certin piles. Like the fan leves in one pile, smaller trim in another, and the smaller trim with a lot of trichs in another. The best way to cure your crop is take some jars with some seal tight lids. Pref those jars they store jelly in. Not sure what the name is though lol. Either that or a nice seal tight Tupperware container. The process of curing your bud is kinda long. So therefore by jarring them and opening them up a few times a day for about 15 min for 2 weeks or more is important. You can cure your bud for a long time, curing will make a much smoother smoke and the taste can be a lot better.
By opening up and storing process, you let the buds and or moisture out of the jar that was left over from the buds. If you don’t cure your buds right they will decompose and rot. So its just best to open them up a few times a day for a bit.